![]() 09/20/2013 at 02:59 • Filed to: FR-S | ![]() | ![]() |
Just got confirmation that my car's ECU has the most recent Calibration ID. Apparently there was an issue with some of the stock mapping that caused detonation at high RPM upshifting. This would inevitably lead to the Teflon seals around the direct injectors melting away. Toyota/Subaru quietly fixed the issue at some point between February and April (but still have not issued a TB to upgrade those without it), and since mine is a March build I really could have had either version.
Well, apparently I have the "good" version, and can now hoon to my heart's content!
![]() 09/20/2013 at 03:04 |
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Is that what I think it is?
Also, you think I can do this to my car? I personally don't like engine failure
![]() 09/20/2013 at 03:13 |
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It's a Greddy Intake (if that is what you are kinja tagging)
And yes, you can do it yourself (I did), here is what you need
1. An Android Device
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
3. The Torque Pro App, (which is very useful because it can do things like measure oil temperature, coolant temp, MAF flowrate... and a lot of other stuff)
Then you can just go into "adapter status" then it will be listed under "calibration ID"
There is probably a similar system for IOS as well, but that is not my area of expertise.
You can also do it with Techstream and I'll have more info on that in about a week. I bought a copy (knockoff from china) and will be using it to disable my DRLs via software.
![]() 09/20/2013 at 03:29 |
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Can you buy OBD-II sensors and attach them to non-OBD-II cars? Do they make aftermarket MAF, Temp, and boost sensors that work like OBD-II, or would you have to rig up a reader from the ground up?
![]() 09/20/2013 at 03:36 |
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Honestly, I've never owned a car that was not either carbureted or Fuel injected with OBDII. My gut tells me though that you would need to install the whole system from the ground up for true OBDII compatibility.
If you have a car that does not have OBDII but has sensors, I think you can buy specialty cables/readers to interpret signals from the sensors.
![]() 09/20/2013 at 03:48 |
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I've been playing around with putting together a standalone engine build and retrofitting it to an older car.
I may be swapping a VK45DE (OBD-II engine with sensors, MAF w/ EFI) into a car that completely lacks electronics. In the process I'd like to add other features too.
If the engine comes OBD-II compliant to begin with, would I need anything extra to make it work in an older car?
I have some comp sci friends who might be able to rig up a USB-using program that could work with some sensors and just sit in the car with a computer screen to display the data, but that's getting way more complicated than necessary.
![]() 09/20/2013 at 03:54 |
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I would think that as long as you have an ECU to interpret the signals of the sensors you would likely be able to make it work. At that point it really should not be much different than other crate motors.
But the biggest engine swap I've yet done was in a push-mower, so I'm not really an expert on the subject.
![]() 09/20/2013 at 04:42 |
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That's a Greddy Intake?! It looks a lot like the aFe Takeda intake, which is what I thought it was.
Hmmm interesting. This might be an option if the dealer won't do it, which may be a possibility because there isn't actually a problem right now. . . technically.
So basically how does getting this app, and OBDII adapter and so on help with the DI seals?
![]() 09/20/2013 at 07:25 |
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This^ It is the ECU that makes it OBD-II. The most/all sensors aren't actually on OBD-II. It is the ECUs in the car that talk over OBD-II. Usually sensors are just a voltage, or sometimes LIN bus. More modern systems? Forget about it. You really have to know what you are doing with the more modern car components if you want to cobble something together.
![]() 09/20/2013 at 11:03 |
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Greddy/Takeda are the same thing. The only difference is the color of the sticker.
It does not help with the seals, but it will tell you which factory calibration your ECU has. What you want to have is "ZA1JA01C", which has the fix. If you do not have it you have two options.
1. Drive more carefully and wait for Toyota to release a TB to upgrade people with other Cal IDs. This involves avoiding quick (<0.6 sec) upshifts at redline anywhere above second gear.
2. Get an aftermarket tune that has code based on the most recent Calibration. This is not a good idea though because it is one of the quickest/easiest ways to instantly void the entire powertrain warranty.
![]() 09/20/2013 at 11:44 |
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Do you know when or if Toyota is releasing an update for the ECU? I hate this idea that my engine may have a possibility of just dying, and all because of a problem from the factory. Luckily though my shifts are deliberate and fairly slow(even at redline), no need to rush while on the street.
![]() 09/20/2013 at 11:56 |
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No idea. I'm pretty sure neither company has officially stated that there is a problem. Subaru has not even privately acknowledged that there is anything wrong with the engine (Toyota has on a few occasions).
Personally, I'll be really glad if they release the update for everyone, then focus some effort on killing off the crickets.